The Sultanate of Oman is a country in the Middle East located in the south of the Arabian Peninsula, bordering the United Arab Emirates (therefore not very far from Dubai). Three-quarters covered with mountains, desert but also canyons, it is a country that promises spectacular landscapes. Here, we respect customs and we live to the rhythm of prayers. Its friendly and smiling locals; its surprising landscapes; its smell of incense everywhere, all the time; its soothing atmosphere; its authenticity... A combination that makes Oman one of our favorite trips today as we were seduced. Almost 2 weeks since we got back when I write these first lines to you and I am already very nostalgic. Our road trip to Oman will remain a wonderful memory.
Preparing for your trip to Oman: practical information
Visa: apply directly on the internet 2 weeks before departure. We received ours within minutes of submitting the form,
Passport: valid for 6 months after the date of return to France,
Currency: the Omani rial: 1 OMR = approximately €2,
Time difference: + 2h in summer / +3h in winter,
Language: Arabic and English everywhere,
Transport: rental vehicle, 4x4 essential to go to the desert but also to climb to the Sayq plateau (Djabel Akhdar). Be careful to respect the speed limits, there are a lot of speed cameras in Oman,
Internet: we subscribed to the offer at 29€ with our French operator for 10GB but you can get a sim card for 16€,
When to go: November to April for cooler temperatures (25 to 30 degrees on average),
How long : between 10 and 15 days, to be able to add the Musandam peninsula to our itinerary and why not Salalah in the south of the country,
Essential in the suitcase: sunscreen, water shoes, cap/hat, sweater for the desert,
Dress: in order not to annoy the locals and respect their culture, make sure to have your shoulders and legs covered. If you are a woman, you will also be asked to cover your head to visit the Muscat Mosque. For swimming, several signs remind tourists to wear a T-shirt and shorts. Please follow the instructions.
Good to know:
- Friday in Oman is a bit like Sunday in France, many things are closed,
- The Omanis are very attached to hygiene. Their appearance is always neat and they smell very good,
- It is forbidden to shout,
- It is rare to meet women, very often it is the men who do the shopping,
- A man can have 4 wives if he wishes, but he must offer them the same life.
The ideal solution for booking your flights and rental cars
We always go through Kayak to book our flights and our rental car: a simple, practical and very affordable solution. With their search filters, we easily find what we are looking for according to our criteria and our budget. If you are looking for a quick and efficient solution to book your flights or a rental car, we advise you to go through Kayak.com.
Road trip to Oman: with a baby?
The question has come up many times on social networks, the answer is YES. Nothing special to report, we felt safe throughout our stay, children are appreciated in the country.
You will find "crossroads" in the big cities to be able to buy specific products for your baby (apple jar, milk, nappies, small jars) but, that said, we also bought Pamper's nappies in a small grocery store in Tiwi.
The cuisine is tasty but not really spicy, Mattéo (2 years old) had no difficulty eating like us. When we had doubts about the excessive use of spices, we ordered fries from him, with a Lemon-Mint (a lemonade with mint); it was the happiest.
Pay special attention to your child's hydration, it can get really hot.
Itinerary of our 9-day road trip in Oman:
Road trip in Oman – Day 1: What to do in Nizwa?
From Dubai, it took us a little less than 6 hours (4h30 drive + 1 hour to cross the border at Al-Ain) to reach Nizwa. This city is an essential stopover during a stay in the Sultanate of Oman. Former capital of the country, one comes to Nizwa to discover its fort, its souks and taste the halwa, a local sweet made from rose water, sugar and spices, reputed to be the best in the country.
The souk
Located at the foot of the fort, the old souk of Nizwa is the best place to meet the locals. The atmosphere is lively, the products are varied (pottery, incense, spices, dates, fruits & vegetables, etc.) and the scents are exhilarating.
Be aware that on Friday morning, very early, the cattle market is held. Men in traditional dress sell their animals at auction. A sight we couldn't see since we visited Nizwa on Monday.
Nizwa Fort
The Sultanate of Oman has more than 500 forts scattered all over the country. Built at the end of the 17th century and perfectly renovated, the fort of Nizwa is today the most visited fort in Oman. Strolling through the many cool rooms, climbing on the roofs, playing hide and seek with Mattéo and also tasting a delicious cheese/honey crepe are the reasons why this visit was very pleasant.
Don't forget to climb to the top of its tower, it offers a 360° panorama of the Jebe Akhdar mountains, the dome of the mosque and the oasis.
Practical information: open every day from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., except Fridays from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. The price is 5 OMR per person, around 12€.
Where to sleep in Nizwa?
Nizwa Heritage Inn: Located a few steps from the souk, the location is ideal for visiting Nizwa. This renovated traditional accommodation has a roof terrace, very pleasant for resting or having a coffee. Breakfast is buffet style. To access the parking spaces in front of the hotel, do not follow your GPS which will surely take you through very very narrow streets. Go past the fort to enter old Nizwa. Price: 50€ per night with breakfast.
Where to eat in Nizwa?
We ate at the restaurant Al Aqur Traditional located right in front of our hotel. €26 for 4 for a platter of mixed meat + raw vegetables/pita and soft drinks.
Road trip to Oman – Day 2: Misfat, via Jebel Akhdar
The Western Hajar massif offers incredible landscapes, with Djebel Akhdar on one side and Djebel Shams on the other. For this second day, we chose to explore Jebel Akhdar before heading to Misfat (or Misfah) al Abriyeen, to the detriment of Jabel Shams and the largest canyon in Arabia. Sometimes you have to make choices and this one was really difficult!
Diana's Viewpoint
Djebel Akhdar, culminating at more than 3000 meters above sea level, owes its name of green mountains to the terraced gardens on its sides. Before being able to drive in this part of the Hajar, a police checkpoint checks the vehicle's papers and checks that it is indeed a 4-wheel drive. It climbs steeply to the Sayq plateau, the canyons appear and the landscapes are impressive. Diana's Viewpoint is inside Anantara Hotel but you can also continue to the end of the road, walk 2 minutes and admire the scenery.
Practical information: here are the GPS coordinates 23.066447, 57.671446
Where to eat at the Plateau de Sayq?
Robou alsaab trade: it was the only restaurant open during our visit. We ordered moutabal, hummus, spinach/labneh manakeesh and again and again lemon mint for a total of 15€ for 5. It's not haute cuisine, but it helps out.
Misfat al Abriyeen
Located on the side of the mountains, in the province of Al Dakhiliyah in Oman, Misfat is a village not to be missed: it is a real favorite for us. This density of green, in such an arid setting, left us speechless. It was very pleasant to walk along the small canals dating from the Persian era, called Falaj. In this palm grove, which was an excellent playground for Mattéo, we could listen to the birds between 2 calls to prayer. If you wish, you can take one of the hiking trails to explore the arid mountain a little closer.
Although old Misfah is sparsely inhabited, you can read on a sign at the entrance to the village some rules to follow, such as saying hello to people or covering your arms and knees.
Practical info: before going to old Misfah, we stopped at some rather photogenic places that you can discover for yourself even if you feel like it.
1st stop: a view of the village of Al Hamra. We then passed through the palm grove towards Misfat. GPS coordinates: 23.116631, 57.278392,
2nd stop: a view of the village of Misfah al Abriyeen. GPS coordinates: 23.137750, 57.308635.
Where to sleep and eat in Misfat?
Misfah Old House: located in the heart of the palm grove, this accommodation is the ideal place to disconnect. The rooms are simple and the beds laid on the floor. We took advantage of the roof terrace for dinner, it was very pleasant. Dinner is served buffet style and is complete: chicken, rice, fish curry, dahl (one of the best we ate in Oman and believe me, we ate it a bunch of times!) and fruit/ cakes for dessert. Breakfast, same principle. Price: €130 per night with breakfast.
Road trip in Oman – Day 3: What to do in Muscat?
Nestled between sea and mountains, Muscat is the capital of the Sultanate of Oman. Although it is one of the smallest capitals in the world, this city is very spread out. It is necessary to have a car and a good organization to visit it without wasting time. If once Muscat was only a fishing port, it has developed rapidly in recent years but has managed to retain its authenticity. What to do in Muscat in one day? Here are the 5 places we were able to visit.
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Funded by Sultan Qaboos ibn Said, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is the largest in the country. It is composed of a central dome with a height of fifty meters and 5 minarets which represent the 5 pillars of Islam. In the large prayer hall you will find a spectacular central crystal chandelier as well as the largest artisanal Persian carpet made in the world. This room is reserved for men during prayers but women are allowed to visit it.
During our travel in Morocco, we were frustrated not to be able to discover the interior of the mosques so we were looking forward to the visit of the Grand Mosque of Muscat. We explored every corner: everything is homogeneous, it's sober, clean, beautiful, welcoming and incredible how good we felt there!
Practical information: open every day from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m., except Friday. Free entry. Legs and arms must be covered, as well as hair for women. It is possible for non-Muslims to enter the prayer rooms, obviously taking off their shoes.
Royal Opera House of Muscat
With its imposing and luxurious architecture, it is a must visit during your stay in Muscat. If from the outside the royal opera is a masterpiece, you will also be surprised by the wooden decorations inside. This opera can accommodate up to 1100 spectators and is the only one in the world to have an organ.
Practical information: The Royal Opera House in Muscat is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and closed on Fridays. You can consult the program on the Opera website.
Mutrah Souk
Located on the corniche, a stone's throw from the Sultan's Palace, the Mutrah souk is a must in Muscat. With your eyes closed, you will find the entrance to the souk thanks to the smell of incense it gives off. Fully covered, here you will find jewelry, pashminas, lighting but also all kinds of souvenirs. Contrary to what you can experience in the Maghreb, no one will call you the gazelle and take your hand to pull you into one of the shops. In the souk of Mutrah the sellers will simply invite you to look but never insist. It's really a pleasure to come and buy some souvenirs here.
Practical info: because I really love the smell of the Omanis, I spoke with a salesman who explained to me that the men here all wear dishdasha (traditional outfits) and that they have small pompoms on the side which are used to put perfume. This is their secret!
Cornice of Mutrah
Animated at the mildest hours (morning and evening), this place of walk is particularly appreciated by the Omanis. You can admire the waterfront buildings, the Blue Mosque, the fort, the giant censer, the parks and also the traditional boats. To discover a beautiful panorama of the capital, you can visit the fort of Mutrah.
Qurum Beach
Located 15 minutes by car from Mutrah Souk, it is one of the most beautiful beaches in Muscat. Although it is slightly busier than the others, it is still very peaceful and pleasant. This is the perfect place to admire the sunset so this is where we chose to end our day. After a little bath, Mattéo played ball with other children while we enjoyed the last rays of sunshine.
Tips: because I could write it 40 times in this article, there will always be tourists who will make themselves at home, so again, yes I insist, if you swim avoid the bikini!
What to do in Muscat if you stay more than one day:
Visit the National Museum of Oman,
Pass in front of the Sultan's Palace,
Excursion to meet the dolphins,
Visit the Muhammad al-Amin Mosque.
Where to eat in Muscat?
Bait al Luban: the best restaurant on our Oman road trip. Sitting on cushions on the floor, to Mattéo's greatest pleasure, we tasted their lentil soup, their shuwa, their harees dijaj and their lemon-mint (for a change!) which is the best in the country. Price: €150 for 5,
Kargeen: eating a buffet with specialties in a pretty oriental decoration. You can also eat a pizza or smoke a shisha,
Ushbar: another very good restaurant where we had fatoush salads, machboos, hummus and lemon mint.
Where to sleep in Muscat?
Fort Guesthouse : a stone's throw from the corniche, you will find charming rooms in this Omani-style hotel. The terrace is very pleasant. Difficult to find better value for money. Price: 50€ per couple.
Road trip in Oman – Day 4: Bimmah Sinkhole / Wadi Shab
We leave Muscat to discover the eastern coast of Oman. The landscapes are, as since the beginning of our stay, incredible. We drive for a good hour along the coast, at the foot of the Hajar mountains. The region stretching from Muscat to Sur has many tourist attractions. If you have a little more time than us, you can go to Wadi Al Arbeieen before discovering the Bimmah Sinkhole and continuing to Wadi Shab. Also make a few stops along the sea to discover the beaches of Oman but also to observe the turtles. We had the chance to see some from the beach: a unique moment, which we particularly appreciated.
Bimmah Sinkhole
Also called “Bait Al Afreet” by the Omanis, the Bimmah Sinkhole is a natural curiosity located in the Najm Parc Hawiyat, not to be missed during a road trip in Oman. This turquoise water hole is quite magical.
However, we have a rather divided opinion on this place. For my part, I loved swimming in this natural pool and enjoying a free fish pedicure, especially since we were lucky enough to be alone during our visit to the Bimmag Sinkhole. But Jérôme, Nico's cousin with whom we shared our trip to Oman, did not appreciate the layout which completely distorts the place (concrete, picnic area, games for children).
Practical information: the park is open from 8 a.m., if you want to arrive early to be able to enjoy the place in peace, without tourists. That said, we were there around noon and there was really no one there. Maybe a stroke of luck...
Wadi Shab
Located in the Al Sharkiyah region, just a few minutes from Tiwi, Wadi Shab is one of the most famous wadis in the Sultanate of Oman and it is also my favorite. We arrive in the middle of the afternoon, many cars are already parked in the parking lot. No time to lose, we board a small boat for 1 OMR (2€) per person with our guide. It is not necessary to take a guide, you will find the way easily. Just be aware that the last boat returns are at 5:30 p.m. without a guide, so if you arrive quite late in the afternoon like us and don't want to rush, we recommend that you take a guide or make the crossing at swimming.
Arrived on the other side of the shore, we begin the hike. It took us 45 minutes to walk (with Matteo in the baby carrier) to heart of the canyon, along the steep walls, to reach the pools. We drop our things on a rock and go swimming. Scaring away the last tourists, we enjoy this incredible place alone.
I stayed alone with Mattéo, while the boys and our guide went up the river. After 20 minutes of water hiking, they swim through a very tight corridor and come across a pretty waterfall. Impossible to go there with a baby.
Practical info: don't forget to take a bottle of water, sunscreen, a waterproof bag and something to cover your head with you as the heat can be overwhelming.
Where to eat in Tiwi?
Anwaar: few choices of restaurant in Tiwi, we stopped in this one a little by chance at the edge of the road. Lots of Indian dishes, we order chikens tikkas.
Where to sleep in Tiwi?
Tiwi Sunrise: ideally located when visiting Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi, this hotel has spacious rooms and a swimming pool. Price: 50€ per couple.
Road trip in Oman – Day 5: Tiwi
For this 5th day of road trip, we are slowing down. We take our time in the morning before heading out to explore Wadi Tiwi, then stop at the beach before taking the road to Sur (or Sour).
Wadi Tiwi
Nicknamed “the gorge of 9 villages”, Wadi Tiwi has to be earned. In 4x4, drive along the wadi for 30 minutes to the village of Mibam. The road is narrow and winding, if it is complicated for the driver know that it is also for the passengers. Several times I closed my eyes thinking that the climb was tough, but the descent would be worse!
We found very little information on how to get there, we struggled for you. Here are the GPS coordinates of the Mibam car park: 22.77305 39.59.2155269. If Omanis ask you to park before it means there is no more space after, listen to them. They can also guide you through date palms and terraced crops to descend to natural pools. Otherwise, at the end of the road, a concrete staircase descends to the waterfall.
Arrived at the bottom, the pools are very slippery and it is impossible to go lower with Mattéo in a baby carrier . We bathe at the foot of the waterfall with the few locals who are already present.
Practical info: many locals also come here to cool off, so swim fully dressed. Don't forget to take your water shoes.
Tiwi beach
Also known as “pebbles beach”, this pebble beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Oman. The locals park directly on the beach with their 4x4 but it is so wide that it is not disturbing. Looking out to sea, we were able to observe a few turtles. It is always a pleasure to see them in their natural environment.
Road trip to Oman – Day 6: What to do in Sur (or Sour)?
Located on the Gulf of Oman, Sur is the capital of the province of Ash Sharqiyah. Punctuated by the tides and the comings and goings of boats, this seaside town is very pleasant. It is not a big city and one day is enough to visit it.
Old Sur
Separated from the rest of the city by an arm of the sea, the old Sour can be visited on foot. If you come here, it's mainly to see the Al Ayjah lighthouse and the view it offers on the corniche.
The ledge & the beach
If you want to immerse yourself in local daily life, the Corniche is the place to go. At the end of the day, the Omanis like to meet there to chat or have a coffee. We spend the end of our day on the beach resting, Mattéo is playing football a little further away with other children. Another place where we really feel good in Oman!
Women's Souk
Before going to dinner, we stroll through the women’s souk. Although men can walk around here, there are only shops for ladies.
Where to eat in Sur?
Road trip to Oman – Day 7: Day off in Ras al hadd
Ras al Hadd is a coastal village located at the eastern tip of the Sultanate of Oman. This place is famous for its sea turtles which come by the hundreds to lay their eggs. However, there is not much to do except rest and enjoy.
Turtle beach resort
We decided to spend our day off in the hotel Turtle Beach Resort. In an extremely relaxing setting, we took advantage of the swimming pool and deckchairs on the beach for 24€ per person, meal included. The establishment had games for children to the delight of Mattéo. A day off that allowed us to recharge the batteries.
Why didn't we visit the turtle reserve?
The turtle reserve is about ten kilometers from Ras al hadd. Without construction, nor the possibility of accessing the beach alone, you will have to go through the reception center of the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve to be able to meet the sea turtles.
A few years ago, when buddies Max & Elisa from Best Jobers came to Oman, they had made the choice not to visit this place because of the non-respect of the reptiles. Several comments on the internet testify to excesses during night excursions: selfies with animals, use of flash, too many people around turtles, etc.
Since then, the Covid-19 has been there and has taken a toll on tourism. We saw very few tourists on our Oman road trip so we were prepared to drive there and make up our own minds, thinking the problem was simply mass tourism. Then a few days before, a new comment on the internet testified to the non-respect of turtle watching and even worse: a guide would have taken a baby turtle out of his pocket to make believe that he had just come out of his egg.
Very happy not to have participated in this disaster, we can only advise you to move on.
Road trip to Oman – Day 8: Sharqiya Sands, via Wadi Bani Khalid
The end of our stay in Oman is approaching. Although we crossed beautiful landscapes and created beautiful memories, the continuation is promising. This is probably the most anticipated day of our road trip. Tonight we sleep in the desert!
Wadi Bani Khalid
Nestled in the Hajar massif, Wadi Bani Khalid is truly magnificent. If this is one of the best known wadis in Oman, it is certainly one of the most accessible.
After parking in the car park, we walk about ten minutes to reach the first pool. On the way signs ask tourists to swim in t-shirts/shorts. It is quite early when we arrive, only a few Omanis are bathing.
We walk along the natural pool to the bottom, then we continue the visit on the rocks. 10 minutes later, we put down our things and jump into one of the pools. A refreshing moment, really very pleasant.
If you wish, you can visit a cave with bats by walking about twenty minutes along the Wadi, the locals will help you find your way without any problem!
On the way back, around 11 a.m., the place is packed with people. If only locals came to picnic, the place would remain pleasant, but unfortunately there are dozens of European tourists who talk very loudly and do not respect the rules (swimming in bikinis).
Very happy to have enjoyed this little paradise in the company of some locals, we left Wadi Bani Khalid and took the road again towards the desert.
Sharqiyah Sands
Also called Wahiba Sands, the desert of the Sultanate of Oman stretches over 180 kilometers from North to South and 80 kilometers from East to West. Being able to reach up to 200 meters high, the dunes offer a landscape with degraded colors of ocher and red. The Sharqiyah Sands desert is easy to access, depending on your itinerary you will arrive from Al Mintirib or Al Wasil. Touts on the road will offer to deflate your tires in exchange for a few dollars. This is the first time in 8 days that we have been asked for money in exchange for a service.
Many activities will allow you to discover the sand dunes according to your desires: camel rides, dune bashing, quad biking, meeting with the Bedouins... The experience you will have here will be unforgettable, whatever the weather. type of accommodation you choose. In the Merzouga desert in Morocco, we slept in a Bedouin tent, here we took more luxurious accommodation (partly so that Mattéo had all the necessary comfort). If the sunset will give you incredible colors, don't forget to go up to the top of the dunes to see the sunrise as well.
Where to sleep in the desert?
Sama al Wasil Desert Camp: located at the foot of the dunes, this is the last camp in the desert. Isolated but easily accessible, it offers chalets with private bathrooms and air conditioning. The dinner buffet is exceptional and the breakfast very varied. There is even a small outdoor cinema to watch a movie in the evening with popcorn, what could be better!
Road trip to Oman – Day 9: Sharqiya Sands – Return to the United Arab Emirates
We had set the alarm clock at 5:30 a.m., to have time to climb up the dunes and be able to enjoy the sunrise. If you read our detailed article of our experience in the desert, you will see that it is a very sporting event! We spent 3 hours (maybe even 4) on top of the dunes, in silence, with the sole objective of enjoying this incredible moment. This lovely family break is one of my best memories of our road trip to Oman.
After having lunch, we take the road towards Abu Dhabi. Oman is one of our favorite trips, sharing it with Montreal cousins – Jérôme & Froilan – gave it even more flavour. Omani, thank you! Thank you for your authenticity, for your smells, for your magical landscapes, for your magnificent wadis, for your welcome, for your simplicity, for your culture, for your safety, for all these memories.
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