The Hashemite Kingdom is a country in the Middle East, bordering Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria and Israel. Even if the country is 80% desert, Jordan has been able to reveal incredible landscapes and make us discover wonderful places such as Petra, the Dead Sea or the Wadi Rum desert. We had planned to cross the country from north to south in 10 days but due to flight delays, our road trip in Jordan lasted 8 days.
Preparing for your trip to Jordan: practical information
Visa/Jordan Pass: be aware that if you take the Jordan Pass which includes your entry to Petra before your arrival in Jordan you will not need to pay for the visa, it is included in it. You can request directly on the internet,
Passport: valid for 6 months after the date of return to France,
Currency: the Jordanian dinar: 1 JD = approximately 1€30,
Time difference: + 2h in winter / +1h in summer,
Language: Arabic everywhere and English widely spoken,
Transport: rental vehicle to be able to travel throughout the country,
Internet: you can get a 10GB sim card for 10 days directly at the airport for 10 JOD (14€), don't hesitate to go through Holafly if you want to take care of this upstream,
When to go: September to November and March to June (25 to 30 degrees on average),
How long: between 8 and 15 days,
Essential in the suitcase: sunscreen, water shoes, cap/hat,
Dress: in order to respect the premises and to feel comfortable, please do not wear very short shorts/skirts.
Good to know:
Arab nationalities pay less for entry with the Arab passport,
Driving in Amman is very sporty,
A lot of waste is left behind because there is no recycling.
The ideal solution for booking your flights
We always go through Kayak to book our flights: a simple, practical and very affordable solution. With their search filters, we easily find what we are looking for according to our criteria and our budget. If you are looking for a quick and efficient solution to book your flights, we advise you to go through Kayak.com.
Road trip in Jordan: with a baby?
As for our trip to Oman was one of the first questions we answered on social media. The answer is once again: YES. And the fact of traveling with the Blogntrip agency is more reassuring.
Jordanians love children and Mattéo allowed us to meet a few people who probably wouldn't have happened if he hadn't been on the trip. Regarding diapers, you can find them in the “crossroads” in Amman or Aqaba. If your child is used to his milk powder, make room for him in the suitcase because not sure you will find the same brand in Jordan.
The cuisine is tasty and the dishes are not all spicy, Mattéo (2 and a half years old) had no difficulty eating. However, if at Oman we had never gotten sick after a salad, here in Jordan we spent a day with violent intestinal cramps. Avoid eating salads or already cut fruit. Also, during hot weather, pay particular attention to your child's hydration.
Itinerary of our 8-day road trip in Jordan:
Road trip in Jordan – Day 1: Direction Little Petra
After many adventures, we finally land in Amman. We go through the controls quickly and collect our suitcases, a SIM card and a car to head to the heart of the capital. We have lunch with the Blogntrip agency team at restaurant Tawaheen al- hawa and sample Mansaf, a Jordanian dish of lamb cooked in a yoghurt sauce with rice, fine-tuning our itinerary. As I wrote to you at the beginning of our article, air delays took away 2 days of travel to Jordan. We had to revise our itinerary, delete some excursions… Thanks again to the team at Blogntrip without which nothing would have been so simple!
Digestion started, we take the road towards Petra. 3h drive through the desert = 3h nap for Matteo and me. We arrive at the end of the afternoon in Petra and decide to discover Little Petra for the sunset.
Siq al-Barid, or Little Petra
Family nicknamed Little Petra, Siq al-Barid (translated as the cold Siq) lives under the shadow of its rival. The majority of tourists do not even pay attention to it and yet it is a very good introduction. Just before reaching the entrance to the Siq, you can admire a very pretty facade. We pass a 400m long canyon before falling on a succession of sandy spaces. Two monuments stand around the troglodyte dwellings: the tomb-temple and the four tricliniums. The quality of the monuments is certainly not up to those you will see in Petra but are worth the detour! The real happiness is that at sunset, we are the only ones to visit this place.
Practical information: the site opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. Admission is free, it would be a shame not to take advantage of it.
The scenic route between Little Petra and Wadi Musa
The road over the Petra Valley offers breathtaking views. Do not hesitate to stop and contemplate the nature that surrounds you. It was so beautiful that we came back the next day with a packet of crisps and cans as an aperitif.
Where to eat in Wadi Musa:
Oriental Restaurant: we find the lemon-minth that we used to take during our travel to Oman and eat fatoush salad with kefta,
Red Cave: a pleasant table that offers Mansaf or maqlouba,
Al-Qantarah: this is where we ate the best buffet including about ten salads, 8 different dishes and many desserts for 10 JOD.
Where to sleep in Wadi Musa:
Elite Petra Hotel: this hotel has only been open for a few months and meets all the quality criteria we had.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 2: Petra
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and voted one of the “New Seven Wonders of the World” since 2007, Petra is a must-see on a trip to Jordan. Built by the Nabataeans, an ancient trading nation, the ancient city of Petra conceals countless architectural treasures. The site is huge, we advise you to stay a minimum of 2 days to be able to take full advantage of the place and soak up the ancient history.
Practical info: when buying your Jordan Pass you will see that the price varies depending on the number of days you wish to spend in Petra. 1 day = 70 JOD; 2 days = 75 JOD; 3 days = 80 JOD. Then just show your Jordan Pass at the entrance. If you have not opted for the pass, you can buy entrance tickets directly in Petra for 20 JOD less.
Do not hesitate to book a Private Day Tour to Petra.
Petra by day
Petra is the most visited tourist site in Jordan. In order to avoid the crowd, we were at 6am in front of the entrance. Mattéo in the baby carrier, a stamp on our Jordan Pass and we are ready to discover Petra. We walk about fifteen minutes on a sandy path before crossing the Siq. We take the time to cross this canyon, narrow and winding, to enjoy the freshness but also to contemplate the Nabataean representations that are everywhere. The colors are great and change depending on what time you cross it.
At the end of the canyon is the most famous monument of the pink city; Al-Khazneh (the Treasury). Sculpted in pink sandstone and measuring 43 meters high and 30 meters wide, the façade of the Treasury is splendid. We feel privileged to enjoy this beauty in a small committee. If you want to see it fully illuminated by the rays of the sun, go between 10 and 11 a.m.
Practical information: the Al-Khubtha Trail hike allows you to climb 200 meters above the entrance to the Siq offering an impressive view of the Treasury. It starts next to the palace tomb, count 1h30 to reach the belvedere. A Bedouin will ask you for a few JODs so you can sit at a photo spot and drink tea or coffee.
We didn't do the hike because with Matteo on our backs, we had to make choices. With the help of a guide that we still pay 10 JOD, we climb on the rocks in front of the Treasury and arrive at a tiny viewpoint. We took some photos and drank a cardamom coffee with the locals before descending and continuing the discovery.
We continue the journey to the Bassin restaurant (40 minutes walk from the Treasury), the starting point of the path that goes up to the monastery. Along the way we observe the rue des Façades, the theater and the royal tombs.
After a refreshing break in the restaurant, we begin the ascent. We climb the 800 steps carved into the cliff, Mattéo sometimes on our backs but more often in our arms. It's 10 am, it's already hot. We take many breaks to enjoy the spectacular scenery in which we walk.
Practical information: you can rent a donkey at the bottom of the steps for 10 JOD. Some Bedouins will offer it to you for 20 JOD so haggle. However, we do not recommend that you take one. Some animals are really heartbreaking and you will see with your own eyes that the welfare of donkeys is not always a priority, especially when you come across them on the steps with a 100 kilo American on their backs... It was said that we would surely take one for Mattéo (2 and a half years old), so as not to have to wear it, but in the end our son climbed half the stairs alone. We motivated him in song and as much to tell you that we sang a lot because a step over was always winning for me who had to carry it. All this to tell you that we are all capable of climbing the 800 steps, I don't want to lecture you and I understand that it's a livelihood for the Bedouins but I just want to open your eyes to the upside decor…
It took us 1 hour to reach Al-Deir (the monastery) from the Bassin restaurant. It is beautiful and very well preserved. It is as impressive as the Treasury and we are lucky, once again, to be almost alone there. We build a few cairns with Mattéo before going to sit at the snack bar opposite and sipping a soda.
Practical information: do not hesitate to explore the surroundings, many viewpoints will allow you to observe the Deir from another perspective. Don't miss the panoramic view of the desert either.
The descent, which is supposed to be easier than the ascent, is ultimately more complicated for us since Mattéo falls asleep in my arms. It is almost noon, the path is completely sunny. Despite the heat and the weight of our big baby, we descend the 800 steps fairly quickly and have lunch at the restaurant so that Mattéo can continue his siesta in the shade of the trees on the terrace.
Where to eat in Petra:
Bassin Restaurant: in the form of a buffet for a choice of international dishes but above all for its terrace in the shade of the trees. 15 JOD per person, or 20 euros,
Nabataen Tent Restaurant: Baskets leave which contain bread, falafel, cheese, pastries and yogurt for 7 JOD per person, or 10 euros.
For the return, we take the carts… It is expensive but with a child and the high temperatures of the afternoon it is extremely practical and fast. We paid 50 JOD, or 65 euros, from the Bassin restaurant to the front door. Passing in front of the Treasury, we notice that there are a lot more tourists and that it is really noisier than when we passed very early this morning.
Petra by night
After taking advantage of the hotel swimming pool at the end of the afternoon, we left for a good hour’s walk. The path of the Siq being passable in stroller to the Treasure, we do not have to carry Mattéo on the back this time. “Petra By Night” takes place every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday at 8:30 p.m. The visit is done in groups, it is impossible to avoid the crowd. The best solution is to stay at the back to enjoy a little more calm. Discovering Petra at night allows you to admire the Nabataean site by candlelight.
Practical information: you can buy your tickets from your hotel or directly at the entrance to Petra for 12 JOD per person, or around 15 euros.
At 8:30 p.m. the doors open. We go down the path of the Siq, lit by lanterns, with the many tourists who have come to watch the show. We are far from the silence in which we descended at 6:00 am but that is part of the game. We pass the Siq in single file, then leave to sit in front of the Treasury. The Bedouins offer us a mint tea then the short musical show begins followed by long explanations in English on the history of Petra. What's a shame is that they don't wait for all the tourists to be installed to start, there are far too many people so between those who smoke, talk or take pictures with the flash the atmosphere is not not all rest. You have to see the good side of things, we hit it off with two really very nice French girls!
Despite the bustle, Al-Khasneh remains majestic! It is an experience that remains unique and that we advise you to do.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 3: Wadi Rum, via Shobak
After having a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we go back to Shobak. It makes more sense to stop there on the Amman – Petra trip, but we didn't have time on the first day. We then had lunch in Wadi Musa before taking the road to Wadi Rum.
Shobak
If we take a short break in Shobak, it is mainly to visit its castle. Certainly much less preserved than that of Kerak, it sits enthroned in a wild setting and offers a very beautiful panorama over the hills of white rocks. Local guides can show you around for 10 JOD. During our visit, many places were being rebuilt to bring the castle's history back to life.
Practical information: you will not have to pay the entrance fee (1 JOD) if you show your Jordan Pass.
On the road you will also come across “the smallest hotel in the world”. It was Mohammed Al Malaheem who had the idea of putting a bed in an old Volkswagen beetle parked on the side of a road at the foot of Shobak Castle. You can sleep in it for 45 euros a night, but you can also simply chat with Mohammed over a coffee with cardamom.
Wadi Rum
After having lunch at the Al-Qantarah restaurant in Wadi Musa, we take the road to Wadi Rum. It takes 1h30 drive from Petra to the desert. Famous thanks to the movie Lawrence of Arabia, you will meet a lot of tourists here. It is one of the most beautiful places we saw during our road trip in Jordan. Nicknamed the valley of the moon, this desert is surprising and has nothing to do with the Merzouga desert in Morocco or the desert Sharqiyah Sands in Oman which are both made up only of sand dunes. The Jordanian desert features canyons, natural arches, cliffs and caves.
Before entering the protected area of Wadi Rum, you will have to stop at the visitor center to validate your access. Admission is free with the Jordan Pass, otherwise 5 JOD will be required. We pass the control and head straight to the Mazayen Rum Camp to drop off our suitcases.
Barely time to settle in, we set off on an excursion to enjoy the sunset in the heart of Wadi Rum. Organized by Blogntrip, we take place in the back of a 4x4 and drive a few minutes before reaching the first stop. We are the first to climb a sand dune and enjoy a breathtaking view of the desert. The rock formations change colors over the hours.
This sunset tour is in high demand. A few minutes later, twenty Jeeps join us. Quickly, we ask our guide to stay ahead of the pack. We therefore discover all the places before our comrades and it is very appreciable.
There is a “perfect rock”, with supposedly the best view for the sunset, but our guide suggests another rock with fewer tourists. His idea probably changed our experience. We are alone among a few Bedouin families to admire the spectacle. Mattéo is playing with other children, I am moved to see the joy on his face in the middle of the Jordanian desert.
Where to sleep in Wadi Rum:
Mazayen Rum Camp: for our first night, we had selected this accommodation to spend an unusual night in a bubble. The location of the camp is ideal as it is further from the main road but I did not find the welcome very warm. In addition, I thought that the water in the jacuzzis placed on our terraces was treated and therefore not renewed at each visit since water in Jordan is a rare commodity. We therefore did not take advantage of this installation so as not to waste water. However, the dinner was very filling and tasty.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 4: In the heart of Wadi Rum
For our second day in the Wadi Rum desert, we go on an excursion with Wadi Rum Jordan Guide. It is thanks to Wadi Rum Jordan Guide that we had the best experience in the Jordanian desert. We had an appointment at 10 a.m. After meeting Atallah the leader, we leave with Metab our guide for the day. He has fun with Mattéo from the first minutes and even takes him with him to pick up some cold drinks in a small shop before our departure.
And here we go on an adventure. Metab will take us around all the points of interest that we can see in 4 hours of excursion. It is possible to go further in Wadi Rum and also longer. If we hadn't had Mattéo, we would have enjoyed a night under the stars, around a campfire, to experience a typical Bedouin evening. In itself, it is possible to do it with a child according to the feedback we have had on social networks.
We trudge over sand dunes and discover canyons, natural arches, mushroom rock and steep cliffs. We are lucky to come across camels. Matab stops and gives them pita bread, which amuses Mattéo a lot.
Lunch time comes. Metab stops the vehicle in the shade, along a cliff. He installs a large carpet for us and begins to cook a ratatouille. Best ratatouille in the world! After the meal, he takes his Oud and sings us some Arabic songs but also the famous nursery rhyme “Frère Jacques”. A pure, magical moment that will remain etched in our memories.
It's 3 p.m. and it's very hot. We ask Metab to accompany us back to the village so that we can recover our vehicle. Mattéo falls asleep in the back of the 4x4 despite the shaking. It's the end of a nice parenthesis in the Jordanian desert.
Where to sleep in Wadi Rum:
Rum Oasis Luxury Camp: this is where we spent our second night, in furnished, air-conditioned tents. The staff is adorable and we enjoy the pool at the end of the afternoon. Dinner is served as a buffet before the dance party.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 5: Aqaba, the Red Sea
For this 5th day of travel, we decide to have a total rest day in Aqaba. Located on the shores of the Red Sea, people come here to relax or go diving. We spend the day at Bérénice Beach Club for 15 JOD per person. With a private beach and several swimming pools, it is the ideal place to rest. He also has a diving club that Nico was able to test but, to be completely transparent, he did not see anything exceptional. During your visit to Aqaba, do not forget to taste the Sayadieh which is the emblematic dish of the region.
What to do in Aqaba?
Visit the city
You can stroll along the Corniche, do some shopping in the souks, visit the Fort, the ruins of Ayla and the Cherif Hussein ben Ali Mosque.
Discover the beaches
The public beach offers a pleasant opportunity to meet Jordanians, but prefer beaches or private clubs to swim in a swimsuit. Women remain fully clothed on the public beach.
Snorkeling
As I wrote a little earlier, the main interest is to enjoy the sea and therefore to snorkel. You can also see wrecks, including a tank which is accessible from South beach. Here is the GPS points to find it.
Go Diving
The bottoms that Nico was able to observe from Bérénice Beach are not exceptional. We advise you to take a boat trip to get away from the coast and go to more interesting spots.
Where to eat in Aqaba:
Al-Mohandes: for hummus bowls and tasty falafels.
Where to sleep in Aqaba:
Marina Plaza Hotel: Located by the Red Sea, this property has 3 swimming pools. Our room had a balcony overlooking a small harbour.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 6: The Dead Sea
We spent 3 hours splashing around in the swimming pools of the Marina Plaza Hotel before taking the road towards the Dead Sea. Located between Israel and Jordan, it is a destination not to be missed that promises you a unique and very fun experience. Floating in the Dead Sea was one of my dreams and this feeling of being carried by the salt will remain one of the best memories of our road trip in Jordan. For a successful swim, you will need to organize yourself (public beach or private beach) and follow some tips to avoid itching.
From Aqaba, it took us 3 hours to reach the resort Dead Sea Spa Hotel, north of the Dead Sea. The landscapes are more beautiful in the South but have no infrastructure to facilitate swimming. You will always find small spots with buckets of mud to try the experience but you will have to remember to bring bottles of water to rinse off. With Mattéo (2 and a half years old), we preferred the Resort to also be able to enjoy the swimming pools and slides.
Practical information: allow 25 JOD per person for access to the swimming pools and the Dead Sea with a snack.
What to do around the Dead Sea:
Mount Nebo: this is the place where Moses would have seen the Promised Land. From here you will observe the Dead Sea and the Jordan Valley. Book your private tour of Madaba, Mount Nebo and Baptism Site from Amman,
The Road of the Kings: this road goes down and up winding for 10 km and offers breathtaking views,
Madaba: This is where one of the largest Christian communities in Jordan lives. This city is famous for the Byzantine mosaics,
Wadi Muijb: with a guide, go canyoning to fully enjoy the wadi. The trek leads to pretty waterfalls,
The springs of Hammamat Ma’in: you can swim in this spa, at the foot of an impressive 260-meter waterfall. Book your Day to Hammamat Ma'in Hot Springs from Amman.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 7: Jerash & Amman
The North of Jordan is often neglected by tourists, yet it is interesting to visit the ancient remains or the Ajlun forest reserve. For our last day, we decide to visit Jerash and its famous archaeological site.
Jerash
Located 50 kilometers from the capital, the archaeological site of Jerash is the largest and most interesting of the Roman sites in Jordan. The conservation of the many buildings allows travelers to reconstruct the urban organization of yesteryear. There are certainly not many indications but it is possible to take a guide at the entrance. With our many contemplative breaks, we stay more than 2 hours surveying these remains. Do not miss the Arch of Hadrian, the Temple of Zeus, the Forum and the Temple of Artemis.
Practical info: With the Jordan Pass, entry is free. Otherwise it is 8 JOD per person. Do not hesitate to book a half day private tour to Jerash from Amman.
Amman
It was supposed to be the first stage of our road trip in Jordan, but it is ultimately the last that we discover the capital. Amman has two distinct parts: the West with its leafy residential neighborhoods and the more authentic, traditional East. Overlooked by the majestic citadel, we loved walking around Amman and especially meeting the locals in the souks or in restaurants.
What to do in Amman?
The souk
This is the best place to immerse yourself in the authentic atmosphere that reigns in Amman and to immerse yourself in Jordanian culture. It's a veritable labyrinth where the smells of spices, the shimmering colors and the sounds of vendors shouting at each other to attract customers come together. Here, you can find everything: colorful fabrics, silver jewelry, pottery, perfumes, essential oils and of course, spices galore! We let ourselves be carried away by the lively atmosphere of the souk and we gladly get lost in the narrow streets to discover hidden treasures.
Do not hesitate to book a private Amman day or night tour.
Rainbow Street
We walk up to the Jebel Amman district. This artery is full of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and art galleries, all in a very bohemian-chic setting. The street owes its name to the rainbow-colored murals that adorn the buildings and give a unique charm to this area. We stroll there quietly, taking the time to discover the little hidden treasures, such as the craftsmen who work with leather or blown glass, or even the street-food stalls that smell divinely good. Rainbow Street is also a meeting place for young Jordanians, who like to meet there in the evening for a drink and to listen to live music. This is the perfect place to experience the trendy atmosphere of Amman and experience the city's nightlife.
King Abdullah Mosque
Really less impressive than the mosque in Muscat or that of Abu Dhabi, we are still captivated by the gigantic blue dome. It was built in 1989 to honor King Abdullah I, the founder of modern Jordan. The building is richly decorated, with intricate geometric patterns and arabesques, as well as gemstones embedded in the walls. Inside, there is a large prayer hall adorned with Persian rugs and a giant crystal chandelier that weighs over 3 tons. It also has a library and a cultural center which regularly host conferences and art exhibitions.
The Roman Theater
The Roman Theater is an emblematic place in the city, which testifies to its millennial history. It was built in the 2nd century and could accommodate up to 6000 spectators. Today it is still used for music and dance performances, as well as for festivals and cultural events. The theater is remarkably well preserved, with its stone tiers and marble arches. You can also admire the breathtaking view of the city of Amman and the surrounding hills. It is a true symbol of Jordan's history and culture, and visiting it is a must for archeology and heritage lovers.
The Citadel
To end our day, we go to the top of Jebel Al-Qala’a. Emblem of the Jordanian capital, it is quite fast to go around its ruins but you can stay a long time to admire the panorama it offers on the city. It is a must when visiting Amman, especially to see the sunset.
Where to eat in Amman:
Gérard Ice Cream: the taste of their ice cream was amazing,
Hashem Restaurant : it seems that this is the kingdom of falafels but above all because I really loved eating in this street restaurant surrounded by locals,
Tawaheen al-hawa : for a very tasty mansaf,
Cantaloupe : for a drink on the rooftops of Amman.
Road trip in Jordan – Day 8: Amman
We take advantage of the few hours we have left to walk around Amman, do some shopping and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the capital one last time.
If you still have some time left, here are some excursions from Amman:
With discoveries such as Petra, the Wadi Rum desert or the Dead Sea, our road trip in Jordan will remain a very beautiful memory. Thanks to Blogntrip for the accompaniment throughout our stay and for the modification of the last minute program.
The advantages of traveling with Blogntrip:
Bespoke creation of our travel itinerary,
Visa free and ready on arrival,
Entry forms ready on arrival,
Sim card with internet ready on arrival,
Recent rental car waiting for us at the airport,
On-site assistance via WhatsApp throughout the trip,
Management of last minute surprises.
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